Etapa 9: los Châteaus del Valle del Loira

Después de disfrutar de París, de sus monumentos, sus edificios, de su río Sena y de sus palacios, teníamos que buscar en el camino de regreso a España algún emblemático lugar que inevitablemente estábamos obligados a visitar. Estaba claro que, si íbamos a entrar por la frontera catalana desde la Ciudad de La Luz, no íbamos a subir los Alpes para llegar después a la Costa Azul. Bajamos por lo tanto en busca de los Châteaus de Francia, y esos están en el Valle del Loira y en Blois.

Entre las ciudades de Orleans y Tours, comenzamos a ver palacios, castillos, castillazos y el inmenso Loira que da nombre al valle y a sus castillos, de obligada visita turística si quieres saber de qué manera tan descomunal y exagerada vivía la realeza, sus cortesanos y servidores. Aquello debió de ser de locos.

Blois es una ciudad medieval que, por su perfecta ubicación, a Juana de Arco le sirvió de base de operaciones ante la batalla de Orleans. Las casas que rodean el Château de Blois se levantan desde el río y defienden el palacio que mando construir Luis XII, en el que también los nazis hicieron barbaridades hasta que los americanos liberaron después de intensos bombardeos a los siempre sufridores vasallos de Blois.

Cruzar el Loira por su puente principal es ver Blois e imaginarse a sus nativos y los asedios que sufrieron mientras construían palacios o la Catedral de San Luis que se divisa majestuosa dominando todo el Valle del Loira. Desde allí poco a poco vimos más Châteaus y más ‘petit palacios’. A ambas orillas puedes encontrarte hasta dragones asomándose por las ventanas.

En cualquier recoveco del inmenso río puede sorprenderte un palacio o Castillo antes, dentro o después de gigantescos bosques que en aquellos siglos servían para que la corte no pasasen frío con su madera o no les faltase comida con la fauna que aún pude verse entre los árboles, por ejemplo, de Chambord.

Como dice la guía turística más importante, el Château du Chambord, compensa la visita por El Valle del Loira. Y, es verdad, porque es exageradamente impresionante; renacentista, mezclando formas tradicionales de la Edad Media con estructuras italianas que hace sospechar a los historiadores que Leonardo Da Vinci tuvo mucho que ver en su diseño. Se levantó el palacio porque al rey Francisco I no le gustaban las reformas que había realizado en el de Blois… qué cosas tenían los reyes de Francia, señor, qué cosas.

Tardaron 20 años (1919-1939) en construirlo y al rey, derrotado en una de sus guerras, cuando salió de la prisión en 1925 ya no le gustó vivir allí y se fue cerca de París. Abandonó Chambord y su Château, que ahora es Patrimonio de la humanidad. En cualquier caso, como dice @Una_De_50: “es muy bonito pero es una lata limpiar sus estancias…”

Desde allí y siguiendo el Loira son tantos los Castillos que te abruma tanta nobleza. torreones, patios, jardines, pabellones de caza, cuadras, ermitas, embarcaderos en el Loira para la realeza, cientos de chimeneas para calentar los palacios y retratos, miles de retratos de sus majestades, marqueses, condes y duques que en cada kilómetro del valle te recuerdan con sus carteles que puedes visitar el Château Cheverny, Valençay, Vendôme, Chenonceau, D’Usse o el de Lazenay…. ese, ese el Château de Lazenay fue nuestro palacio, donde dormimos en Bourges.

Otra ciudad medieval rodeada de castillos, palacios y presidida por una exagerada catedral de Saint-Étienne de estilo gótico que deslumbra por sus cinco pórticos de la gloria. Esta catedral es monumento histórico del patrimonio francés y está incluida en el Camino de Santiago.

Erigida en una plaza donde dicen que había un simple lugar de culto romano en la Galia, fue haciéndose más enorme según la iban construyendo porque les parecía que era más pequeña de lo normal. Quizás por eso aparenta y es exagerada con detalles renacentistas que ‘distraen’ su belleza. Hasta darla definitivamente por acabada, transcurrieron tres siglos y aún hoy siguen rematando la faena.

Del Valle del Loira hemos disfrutado de su río y de sus palacios pero especialmente del nuestro donde dormimos como… ¿Reyes? ¿Duques? ¿Condes? ¿Marqueses? Mejor como mochileros, tan agotados de tantos impresionantes Châteaus que caímos rendidos en el nuestro, que desde hoy ya no es de Lazenay sino el Château de la Maleta de Cano.

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    {I have|I’ve} {read|learn} this {post|submit|publish|put up} and if I
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    {blog|weblog|webpage|website|web site}, I have read all
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    I am sure this {article|post|piece of writing|paragraph} has touched all the internet {users|people|viewers|visitors},
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    {Saved as a favorite|bookmarked!!}, {I really like|I like|I love} {your blog|your site|your
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    {come back|return|revisit} {once again|yet again} {since
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    Woah! I’m really {loving|enjoying|digging} the template/theme of this
    {site|website|blog}. It’s simple, yet effective.

    A lot of times it’s {very hard|very difficult|challenging|tough|difficult|hard} to get that «perfect balance» between {superb usability|user friendliness|usability} and
    {visual appearance|visual appeal|appearance}. I must say {that you’ve|you have|you’ve} done a {awesome|amazing|very good|superb|fantastic|excellent|great} job with this.
    {In addition|Additionally|Also}, the blog
    loads {very|extremely|super} {fast|quick} for me on {Safari|Internet explorer|Chrome|Opera|Firefox}.
    {Superb|Exceptional|Outstanding|Excellent} Blog!|
    These are {really|actually|in fact|truly|genuinely} {great|enormous|impressive|wonderful|fantastic}
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    Any way keep up wrinting.|
    {I love|I really like|I enjoy|I like|Everyone loves} what you guys {are|are usually|tend to be} up too.

    {This sort of|This type of|Such|This kind of} clever work and {exposure|coverage|reporting}!
    Keep up the {superb|terrific|very good|great|good|awesome|fantastic|excellent|amazing|wonderful} works guys I’ve {incorporated||added|included} you guys to {|my|our||my personal|my
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    {Howdy|Hi there|Hey there|Hi|Hello|Hey}! Someone in my {Myspace|Facebook} group
    shared this {site|website} with us so I came
    to {give it a look|look it over|take a look|check it out}. I’m definitely {enjoying|loving} the
    information. I’m {book-marking|bookmarking} and will be tweeting this to my followers!
    {Terrific|Wonderful|Great|Fantastic|Outstanding|Exceptional|Superb|Excellent} blog
    and {wonderful|terrific|brilliant|amazing|great|excellent|fantastic|outstanding|superb} {style and design|design and style|design}.|
    {I love|I really like|I enjoy|I like|Everyone loves} what you guys {are|are usually|tend to be} up too.
    {This sort of|This type of|Such|This kind of} clever work and {exposure|coverage|reporting}!

    Keep up the {superb|terrific|very good|great|good|awesome|fantastic|excellent|amazing|wonderful} works guys I’ve {incorporated|added|included} you guys to {|my|our|my personal|my own} blogroll.|
    {Howdy|Hi there|Hey there|Hi|Hello|Hey} would you mind {stating|sharing} which blog platform you’re {working with|using}?
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    The reason I ask is because your {design and style|design|layout} seems different then most blogs and I’m looking for something {completely
    unique|unique}. P.S {My apologies|Apologies|Sorry} for {getting|being} off-topic
    but I had to ask!|
    {Howdy|Hi there|Hi|Hey there|Hello|Hey} would you mind letting me know which {webhost|hosting company|web host} you’re {utilizing|working
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    provider at a {honest|reasonable|fair} price? {Thanks a lot|Kudos|Cheers|Thank you|Many thanks|Thanks}, I appreciate it!|
    {I love|I really like|I like|Everyone loves} it {when people|when individuals|when folks|whenever people}
    {come together|get together} and share {opinions|thoughts|views|ideas}.
    Great {blog|website|site}, {keep it up|continue the
    good work|stick with it}!|
    Thank you for the {auspicious|good} writeup. It in fact
    was a amusement account it. Look advanced to {far|more}
    added agreeable from you! {By the way|However}, how {can|could} we communicate?|
    {Howdy|Hi there|Hey there|Hello|Hey} just wanted to give you a quick heads up.
    The {text|words} in your {content|post|article} seem to be running off the screen in {Ie|Internet explorer|Chrome|Firefox|Safari|Opera}.

    I’m not sure if this is a {format|formatting} issue or something to do
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    This is a topic {that is|that’s|which is} {close to|near to} my heart…
    {Cheers|Many thanks|Best wishes|Take care|Thank you}!
    {Where|Exactly where} are your contact details though?|
    It’s very {easy|simple|trouble-free|straightforward|effortless} to find out any {topic|matter}
    on {net|web} as compared to {books|textbooks},
    as I found this {article|post|piece of writing|paragraph} at this {website|web site|site|web page}.|
    Does your {site|website|blog} have a contact page?
    I’m having {a tough time|problems|trouble} locating
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    I’ve got some {creative ideas|recommendations|suggestions|ideas} for your blog you might
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    {Hola|Hey there|Hi|Hello|Greetings}! I’ve been {following|reading} your {site|web site|website|weblog|blog} for {a
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    You {seem|appear} {to understand|to know|to grasp} {so much|a lot} {approximately|about} this, {like you|such as
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    {I think|I feel|I believe} {that you|that you simply|that you just} {could|can} do
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    I visited {multiple|many|several|various} {websites|sites|web sites|web pages|blogs} {but|except|however}
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    {Howdy|Hi there|Hi|Hello}, i read your blog {occasionally|from time to time} and i own a
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    Greetings! {Very helpful|Very useful} advice
    {within this|in this particular} {article|post}! {It
    is the|It’s the} little changes {that make|which will make|that produce|that will make} {the biggest|the largest|the greatest|the most important|the most significant} changes.

    {Thanks a lot|Thanks|Many thanks} for sharing!|
    {I really|I truly|I seriously|I absolutely} love {your
    blog|your site|your website}.. {Very nice|Excellent|Pleasant|Great} colors & theme.
    Did you {create|develop|make|build} {this website|this site|this web site|this amazing site} yourself?

    Please reply back as I’m {looking to|trying to|planning
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    {Thanks|Many thanks|Thank you|Cheers|Appreciate it|Kudos}!|
    {Hi there|Hello there|Howdy}! This {post|article|blog post} {couldn’t|could not} be written {any better|much better}!
    {Reading through|Looking at|Going through|Looking through} this {post|article}
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    most certainly will} {forward|send} {this article|this information|this post} to
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    {Thank you for|Thanks for|Many thanks for|I appreciate you for} sharing!|
    {Wow|Whoa|Incredible|Amazing}! This blog looks {exactly|just} like my
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    different {topic|subject} but it has pretty much the same {layout|page layout} and design. {Excellent|Wonderful|Great|Outstanding|Superb} choice of colors!|
    {There is|There’s} {definately|certainly} {a lot to|a great deal to} {know
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    {I like|I love|I really like} {all the|all of the} points {you made|you’ve made|you have made}.|
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    {Hi|Hello|Hi there|What’s up}, I {log on to|check|read} your {new stuff|blogs|blog} {regularly|like every week|daily|on a regular basis}.
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    {Hi there|Hello}, I enjoy reading {all of|through} your {article|post|article
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    I {always|constantly|every time} spent my half an hour to read this {blog|weblog|webpage|website|web site}’s
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    My {coder|programmer|developer} is trying to {persuade|convince} me
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    {Any kind of|Any} help would be {really|greatly} appreciated!|
    {Hello|Hi|Hello there|Hi there|Howdy|Good day}! I could have sworn I’ve {been to|visited} {this blog|this
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    {fantastic|wonderful|great|excellent} {blog|website|site}!|
    {A person|Someone|Somebody} {necessarily|essentially} {lend a hand|help|assist} to make {seriously|critically|significantly|severely} {articles|posts} {I
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    {Great|Wonderful|Fantastic|Magnificent|Excellent} {task|process|activity|job}!|
    Heya {i’m|i am} for {the primary|the first} time here.
    I {came across|found} this board and I {in finding|find|to find} It
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    {Hello|Hi|Hello there|Hi there|Howdy|Good day|Hey there}!
    {I just|I simply} {would like to|want to|wish
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    I {always|all the time|every time} used to {read|study} {article|post|piece of
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    {Hi|Hello} there, {I found|I discovered} your {blog|website|web site|site} {by means of|via|by the use of|by way of} Google {at the same time
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    {Hello|Hi} there, {simply|just} {turned into|became|was|become|changed into} {aware
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    {I’m|I am} {gonna|going to} {watch out|be careful} for brussels.
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    Cheers!|
    {I am|I’m} curious to find out what blog {system|platform} {you have been|you happen to be|you are|you’re} {working with|utilizing|using}?
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    {I would|I’d} like to find something more {safe|risk-free|safeguarded|secure}.
    Do you have any {solutions|suggestions|recommendations}?|
    {I am|I’m} {extremely|really} impressed with your writing skills {and also|as well as} with the layout on your {blog|weblog}.

    Is this a paid theme or did you {customize|modify} it yourself?
    {Either way|Anyway} keep up the {nice|excellent} quality writing, {it’s|it is} rare to see
    a {nice|great} blog like this one {these days|nowadays|today}.|
    {I am|I’m} {extremely|really} {inspired|impressed} {with your|together with your|along with your} writing {talents|skills|abilities} {and also|as {smartly|well|neatly} as}
    with the {layout|format|structure} {for your|on your|in your|to
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    {nice|great} {blog|weblog} like this one {these days|nowadays|today}..|
    {Hi|Hello}, Neat post. {There is|There’s} {a problem|an issue}
    {with your|together with your|along with your} {site|web site|website} in {internet|web} explorer,
    {may|might|could|would} {check|test} this? IE {still|nonetheless} is the {marketplace|market} {leader|chief} and {a large|a good|a big|a huge}
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    {I’m|I am} not sure where {you are|you’re} getting your {info|information},
    but {good|great} topic. I needs to spend some time learning {more|much more}
    or understanding more. Thanks for {great|wonderful|fantastic|magnificent|excellent} {information|info} I was looking for this {information|info} for my mission.|
    {Hi|Hello}, i think that i saw you visited my {blog|weblog|website|web site|site} {so|thus} i came to
    “return the favor”.{I am|I’m} {trying to|attempting to} find things to {improve|enhance} my {website|site|web site}!I suppose its
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