Etapa 10: Collioure ya no es triste

Salimos de las Aguas Termales Vichy en Juvignac para recorrer la última etapa en Francia.

Antes de pasar a España teníamos que hacer dos cosas. La primera, cruzar por un puente-viaducto de dos kilómetros sobre el río Tarn, que descongestiona la ciudad en verano y es paso obligado de parisinos, bretones y normandos que buscan el calor y las aguas del Mediterráneo en la Costa Azul.

Por supuesto, otra obligada visita de nuestro Tour personal antes de abandonar Francia era Collioure.

Siempre pensé que Collioure era un pueblo triste, gris… era más la imagen de los últimos días de Antonio Machado que lo que iba a conocer. En mi imaginación toda la tristeza del poeta que deja su patria, toda la pena de una guerra se me dibujaba en aquel puertecito francés.

Después de pasar el puente, como pasamos todos, viendo el paisaje allá abajo y allá arriba, llegamos a Collioure. En cada curva, según avanzábamos, se nos presentaba a retazos un mar azul luminoso. Y en cuanto llegamos al pueblo, el bullicio,los turistas, las casas de colores y un bonito puerto, dieron al traste con lo preconcebido.

Aquello no era triste, aquello no era feo, era un pueblecito con su encanto, sus calles mas parecidas a una ibiza de hace muchos años o a cualquier puerto del Mediterraneo.

Caminando por sus cuestas quería meterme en la piel del poeta, de su familia, no era lo que estaba viendo, lo mismo que ellos verian, un mes de enero del 39, eso, ya lo hace diferente y si llegas con heridas en el alma ,lo cambia todo.
Aún así mirando los pequeños barcos del puerto, era facil imaginar que aquellos exiliados pensarian en la partida y en volver a España. Parados ante los niños jugando en la playa o sufriendo lo ruidosas que son las gaviotas, se hacía dificil cambiar el rumbo de la visita. A lo que habiamos ido era a ver la tumba de Machado y a homenajearle a nuestra manera.

Aunque ir a un cementerio no entra en muchos planes de visitas turísticas, el de Collioure sí. La gente va, deja su recuerdo, su homenaje a uno de los grandes. Y el cementerio sí que es triste. Y hasta las palabras escritas con piedras, las flores, las banderas, hasta la pulsera que alli había eran tan tristes como pensar que los hombres…. cuánto nos equivocamos y cuánto daño nos hacemos.

Lo último que vio Antonio Machado, fue el cielo de Collioure, nosotros lo último que hemos disfrutado de este tour en tierras francesas 2018, es el recuerdo primordialmente de, un hombre bueno y además del poeta preferido, de noches y años, de versos y alma. Por eso Collioure no es triste, ni lo será ya nunca, porque ya no es el sitio donde se fue, sino dónde dejó todo lo que era y él, era recuerdos de un patio de sevilla… donde nació y eso sí, que fue una suerte.

 

En Cotlliure

(Joan Manuel Serrat)

Soplaban vientos del sur
y el hombre emprendió viaje.
Su orgullo, un poco de fe
y un regusto amargo fue
su equipaje.

Miró hacia atrás y no vio
más que cadáveres sobre
unos campos sin color.
Su jardín sin una flor
y sus bosques sin un roble.

Y viejo,
y cansado,
a orillas del mar
bebióse sorbo a sorbo su pasado.

Profeta
ni mártir
quiso Antonio ser.
Y un poco de todo lo fue sin querer.

Una gruesa losa gris
vela el sueño del hermano.
La yerba crece a sus pies
y le da sombra un ciprés
en verano.

El jarrón que alguien llenó
de flores artificiales,
unos versos y un clavel
y unas ramas de laurel
son las prendas personales,

del viejo,
y cansado,
que a orillas del mar
bebióse sorbo a sorbo su pasado.

Profeta
ni mártir
quiso Antonio ser.
Y un poco de todo lo fue sin querer.

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