Concha Crespo: ‘De neveras, tortilla y [email protected]

Conociendo a… Concha Crespo

  • ¿Quién es? Periodista gastronómica. Gastronómada y Gourmet. Si me das a elegir, siempre querré viajar. Enredada y feliz. Gracias a la vida que me da tanto.
  • Una comida. Tortilla de patata y cebolla.
  • Un lugar para comer. Mi casa.
  • Un lugar para perderse. La Habana.
  • Un viaje por hacer. Patagonia.
  • ¿A quién se llevaría? A quien me hiciera reír a todas horas.
  • ¿Y a quién no? A quien no sabe que viajar es un privilegio y un regalo al que no se le puede poner pegas.
  • Una canción o estilo de música. Country.
  • Una película. ‘La balada de Narayama’.
  • Un libro. Siempre el que acabo de leer. ‘La cena’.
  • Un estilo de ropa. Informal pero arreglada.
  • Un color. Verde Tiffany.
  • Un número. 8.
  • Un hobby. Cocinar.
  • ¿Qué se operaría? El pronto que a veces me traiciona…
  • ¿A quién admira? A mi madre.
  • ¿Qué borraría de su vida? Las enfermedades.
  • ¿Y qué borraría del mundo? La maldad.
  • ¿Qué otra profesión le habría gustado ejercer? Diplomática.
  • ¿Por qué le gustaría que le recordasen? Por la divulgación que hago de la gastronomía invitando al hedonismo como estilo de vida.

Este verano, mi nevera, al contrario que la de #AlmudenaGrandes, (según escribe en elpaís.com) ha permanecido en cuarentena. No ha entrado absolutamente nada en ella durante el mes y medio que hemos cerrado la casa por vacaciones. Ni ha entrado vívere ni ha salido. Se ha quedado vacía y limpia y desconectada para que a la vuelta luciera como nueva. Como yo.

Así la dejé a mediados de julio. Así me la he encontrado. Ávida de lo que la quiera llenar. Deseando cumplir su misión. (En breve, en cuanto haga la compra. Mientras, recién llegada, prefiero escribir, porque he engordado dos kilos en el periplo que ahora os contaré.)

Este verano he decidido aceptar las invitaciones de mis [email protected] y disfrutar del placer de ser recibida con tantas ganas como las que pongo yo cuando ellos vienen a casa. Con tantas expectativas de gustar y sorprender como las que tengo yo cuando diseño el menú que a mí también, como a la autora de “Los pacientes del doctor García”, acaban mejorando mis [email protected] [email protected]

Porque… ¿cómo van a venir ellas, sobre todo ellas, “con su mejor sonrisa”, como les pido cuando me preguntan? No, ellas siempre cargan con algo que acabará en forma de resto reciclable, “codeándose” en mi nevera con el último #salmorejo que me han mandado de Sevilla para que lo pruebe o con la #mantequilla de #trufa que me traen del Piamonte, mis amigas gastrónomas y viajeras,(ellas saben que solo acepto esos souvenirs)…o… con lo adquirido en #Mercadona como toda hija de vecina inteligente que se precie!!

No, yo este verano he querido “innovar” y allá donde me he presentado de visita, he llegado con mi mejor sonrisa, como es de rigor, como a mí me gusta, con mi mochila con cuatro trapos, y con muchas ganas de preparar mi tortilla de patatas y cebollas varias. La nevera ni tocarla. Unas veces ha sido posible y otras no. Ahora os explico.

En el Médoc francés, entre viñedos de Cabernet Sauvignon y playas salvajes del Atlántico, a mediados de julio, las ostras y los quesos de mis amigas, Amelie y Sandrine, fueron los acompañantes perfectos del plato estrella de una servidora que disfruta poniéndose el delantal en casa ajena tanto como contándooslo.

En Yecla, Murcia, la familia Castaño me descubrió el poderío de la monastrell y el queso fresco de leche de cabra, frito. Ideal para acompañar con la tortilla que soñaba hacer al llegar a la playa a ver a mis hijos.

Antes pasé a recoger a mi madre. Allí en Valencia, en Moncada, unos días después, en el bar de mis amigos María del Señor y Jehad, mi tortilla no encontró sentido ante el Mansaf jordano que comí con los ojos cerrados mientras imaginaba cómo se haría el yogurt seco de leche de cabra (jameed), con el que el arroz y el cordero resultaban extraordinariamente jugosos.

Ya en mi Tavernes del alma y de mis hijos, improvisé tortilla que acompañé con las delicadas #huevasdesepia. Solo las hay donde se comen muchas y buenas jibias o chocos. Como cada verano desde que nació Jimena, desde el SanBernardo me las suben a casa.

Una escapada fugaz a Teruel para que mi madre pasara unos días con sus primas y amigas, me regaló comidas familiares en las que el #conejoalajillo de la tía Laude y el #arrozalhorno de la tía Lola me supieron mejor que algunas bacanales de grandes chefs.

Allí, en Escorihuela, donde se crió la madre que me parió y donde no hay un solo bar más que 15 días al año y la #oreja está de vicio, la #tortilla la hizo la tía Josefa. Y como era previsible de una abuela de 85 años, el éxtasis estuvo garantizado. Entre tanta experta de verdad, mi tortilla podía esperar.

A principios de agosto, de vuelta a Valencia, en Daimús y delante del Mediterráneo, en Casa Manolo, mi tortilla quedó relegada a un encuentro en invierno, allí mismo y con mis amigas. En el paraíso de mi amigo Manuel Alonso me dejé seducir por su #fideuá, sus #gambas de la Safor y su versión del #hervido de #verduras (bullit) tan evocador para una valenciana como yo…

Pocos días después, y por culpa de unos #calabacines babys, emprendí un viaje a Cádiz con parada en la bella Manilva, Málaga. (Conocida en el mundo entero por sus uvas blancas y desconocida afortunadamente por su magnetismo).

Allí me esperaban las adorables, incondicionales, divertidas y gemelas, Ana Jover y #Ángela para compartir conmigo el edén donde se escapan desde hace ya muchos años a descansar en familia, a hacer cartas astrales a las amigas, a bañarse de día y de noche, a comer los manjares del chiringuito de Pepi y a bailar al ritmo de Compás Flamenco hasta la madrugada de los miércoles.

-Aquí, en este porche desde el que se ve el mar a pocos metros, mi “famosa” #tortillaespañola, resultará deliciosa, les anuncié con cierta guasa, después de la cena de bienvenida en la que no faltaron #Tortillitasdecamarón, #pescaíto frito y #tomate de la tierra con mucho #ajo y buen aceite de Jaén.

-Ojalá Gertru, el padre de la chica de la curva que hay al subir al pueblo, nos venda los #calabacines con los que te provoqué que vinieras…no los recoge todos los días, me respondió Ana.

Y así fue que la noche siguiente, tras un baño en el que “el mar acarició a la luna”, me metí en la #cocina con ella y “parimos” a la par ese plato en el que el #huevo se manifiesta inmensamente feliz inundando el semipuré de #patata y #cebolla bien fritas y crujientes…y eso trasciende. Bebimos #ron. Aplausos. Luna llena.

Ya podía irme tranquila a Cádiz.

Cerca de Tarifa, en Punta Paloma, volvería a ponerme ciega de pescado y #marisco frito y en Chiclana de la Frontera, en playa de la barrosa en el magnífico chic-ringuito de mi amigo Miguel Grande, el de los #Galayos, el homenaje gastronómico nos lo hicimos por la noche tras una inconmensurable puesta de sol con violines.

Mi amiga América, compañera de viaje y yo, enloquecimos con las #almejas al #oloroso, con el #cazón en su adobo especial, y con la #ventresca de atún a la plancha con #mermelada de #pimientos del piquillo. Quedó pendiente el #morrillo

De vuelta a Valencia para encontrarme con la familia y despedir el verano en mi tierra con una fabulosa e incomparable tortilla de mi madre, paré a abrazar a mis grandes amigos @Khadija y Moha que cambian en agosto, su habitual Marrakech por nuestra costas.

Con ellos tuve la suerte de celebrar el día del cordero. ¿Puede alguien contarme qué pintaba mi tortilla entre suculentos pinchos morunos de hígado de cordero, melosos callos de ídem y un adictivo guiso al limón también de cordero, elaborado por el mejor chef marroquí que conozco ? Pues no lo sé, pero me empeñé en corresponder, no en competir…

Bueno, la foto que hermana mi humilde plato, (que obviamente ese día no estuvo a la altura), con los pinchos… son todo un símbolo…

A finales de agosto y ya en Valencia, mi centro de operaciones este verano, quise aprovechar y conocer a una cocinera de la que me había hablado mi amigo mexicano #Chef Jose Bossuet Martinez.

Gracias, gracias, gracias! Ojo a Karla Chápero ! Restaurante Ameyal, quizás el mejor restaurante mexicano en Valencia

Con el recuerdo de sus tacos norteños, sus quesadillas de Comal y sus tortillas recién hechas me voy a llenar mi nevera. Primero tengo que hacer la compra que estoy posponiendo porque ese momento-carrito será decisivo para devolverme por fin a la realidad de la que salí hace ya no sé cuantas tortillas….

Sabroso regreso a la bendita cotidianidad!

Septiembre apetece.

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